MANASLU EXPEDITION
Trip Description
Manaslu was first summited on 9 May 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa — the culmination of three previous Japanese expedition attempts on the mountain. Nepal had only opened its peaks to foreign climbers a few years earlier, and Manaslu was among the first great summits reached in the post-opening era. The mountain now has at least six recognized routes, though the northeast face remains the standard and most frequently climbed line.
The mountain sits in the Mansiri Himal, northeast of the Annapurna massif and northwest of the Ganesh Himal — a position that places it in a genuinely different cultural landscape from the Khumbu peaks further east. The Manaslu Conservation Area, through which the helicopter approach passes above Samagaon, is home to communities that maintain a strong Tibetan Buddhist cultural identity and traditions that have remained largely intact. Samagaon also known as the village at the foot of the mountain is one of the most authentic Himalayan high-altitude settlements accessible on any major expedition.
The northeast face route climbs from Base Camp at 4,800m through a series of snow slopes and glaciated terrain. Camp 1 at 5,800m sits on the glacier above the lower approach. Camp 2 at 6,400m marks the point where the face begins to steepen. Camp 3 at 6,800m is the highest camp used for acclimatization rotations before the summit push, and Camp 4 at 7,400m is the final camp before the summit day. The ground above Camp 4 involves steeper snow and some mixed sections before the plateau-like approach to the summit at 8,163m.
The autumn season window on Manaslu typically opens in September and runs through October. It is one of the few 8,000-metre peaks that is predominantly climbed in autumn rather than spring — the post-monsoon stabilization in this western Himalayan region delivers the most reliable conditions for the northeast face route. The summit window is generally narrower than spring windows on Everest or Cho Oyu, and the timing of the summit push requires careful weather monitoring throughout the climbing period.
Alpinist Climber Expeditions approaches the Manaslu programme with an explicit commitment to environmental responsibility. All waste is carried out from Base Camp and high camps. Local cultural practices are respected throughout the expedition. The Leave No Trace approach is not a policy statement, it is standard operating procedure on every expedition we organize in this area.
Trip Overview
Manaslu stands at 8,163 metres in the Gorkha District of western Nepal — the eighth highest mountain in the world and, for climbers making their first move into 8,000-metre terrain, one of the most logical and rewarding starting points available. Its name means 'Mountain of the Spirit' in Sanskrit. The climbing community has long regarded it as one of the most accessible of the high peaks — a mountain with fewer technical sections than Cho Oyu's upper slopes, a well-established route on the northeast face, and autumn weather patterns that tend to offer more reliable summit windows than some of its peers.
The approach is different from every other 8,000-metre peak in Nepal. Rather than a long Himalayan trek from a mountain airstrip, the Manaslu expedition flies by helicopter directly from Kathmandu to Samagaon — a traditional Tibetan-influenced village at 3,500m in the Manaslu Conservation Area, 40 minutes from the capital. From Samagaon, a short trek leads to Base Camp at 4,800m, passing Birendra Lake — a beautiful glacial lake at the foot of the glacier approach. The helicopter approach is efficient, but Samagaon itself is a genuine cultural highlight: dry stone houses, ancient gompas, prayer flags, and Manaslu rising in full scale directly above the village.
The northeast face route ascends through four camps: Camp 1 at 5,800m, Camp 2 at 6,400m, Camp 3 at 6,800m, and Camp 4 at 7,400m — on moderately angled snow slopes with some steeper sections between Camp 3 and Camp 4. The total climbing period is approximately 20 days from Puja to summit and descent. The summit plateau at 8,163m delivers sweeping views of Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Cho Oyu, and the full western Himalayan arc — one of the most panoramic summit views available on any 8,000-metre peak.
For climbers who have experience above 7,000 metres and are seriously considering Everest, Manaslu is the most commonly recommended preparation peak. It shares enough of Everest's character, scale, acclimatization demands, high-camp logistics, supplemental oxygen management making it a genuinely useful preparation, while being less crowded, less expensive, and approachable in its own right as a primary objective. Reaching the summit of Manaslu is a significant achievement regardless of what comes after it.
Expedition Highlights
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Summit Manaslu (8,163m) — the world's eighth highest mountain and the 'Mountain of the Spirit'
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Widely regarded as one of the best first 8,000m peaks — and the strongest Everest preparation expedition available in Nepal
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Helicopter Kathmandu to Samagaon (both ways) — efficient approach, no long trekking corridor required
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Samagaon village — a remarkably intact Tibetan Buddhist settlement with Manaslu rising directly above
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Birendra Lake — a beautiful glacial lake on the approach from Samagaon to Base Camp
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Northeast face route — four camps, moderately angled snow slopes, achievable for well-prepared teams
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Summit views: Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Cho Oyu, and the full western Himalayan arc
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Leave No Trace approach — all waste carried out, cultural practices respected throughout
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IFMGA-certified lead guide and 1:1 Climbing Sherpa on summit day
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Option for a fully private 1:1 expedition with IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa
Led by IFMGA-Certified Professionals
Manaslu's moderate technical profile means that the primary determinants of expedition success are acclimatization management, weather judgment, and the consistent support quality that allows every team member to perform at their best above 7,000 metres. These are precisely the areas where IFMGA-certified guiding makes the most material difference.
Every Manaslu expedition organized by Alpinist Climber Expeditions is led by an IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV-certified mountain guide — the highest internationally recognized standard in professional mountain guiding. Our lead guides hold additional qualifications in Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue and Marshalling, and High-Altitude Rescue, all applied in the field on every expedition.
Mr. Prakash Sherpa, CEO and Lead IFMGA Mountain Guide of Alpinist Climber Expeditions, has personally summited Manaslu alongside Everest (five times), Lhotse, K2, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Dhaulagiri, Nuptse, Pumori, and many more — several without supplemental oxygen. He has been guiding professionally at high altitude since the age of 15 with over 15 years of experience on terrain at and above 8,000 metres. He is a member of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA). For those selecting the premium 1:1 private option, Mr. Prakash Sherpa leads the Manaslu expedition personally.
Detailed Itinerary
A representative from Alpinist Climber Expeditions meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your 4-star hotel. The evening opens with a welcome dinner — the team gathers for the first time, and your lead guide introduces the route, the helicopter approach, and the 32 days ahead.
1,330m
Hotel
A full expedition briefing covers the northeast face route, the four-camp structure, acclimatization plan, oxygen system management, safety protocols, permit formalities, the government liaison officer coordination, and the Leave No Trace approach that governs how we operate in the Manaslu Conservation Area. Equipment is checked and confirmed. You receive your Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt.
1,330m
Hotel
A 40-minute helicopter flight from Kathmandu delivers the team to Samagaon at 3,500m — one of the most direct and efficient approaches of any 8,000-metre peak in Nepal. The flight follows the valleys northwest from Kathmandu, passing above the Budhi Gandaki River corridor before arriving at Samagaon. From the air, Manaslu appears ahead well before landing — the northeast face already presenting its full scale. Samagaon is a traditional Tibetan Buddhist village of dry stone houses, ancient gompas, and prayer flag strings stretched between rooftops. It is a remarkable and culturally rich base before the climb begins.
Note: The altitude gain from 1,330m in Kathmandu to 3,500m in Samagaon in a single day is significant. Activity is kept to a minimum on arrival — rest, hydration, and light movement only. The acclimatization day on Day 04 is essential.
3,500m
Lodge
A full rest and acclimatization day in Samagaon. The body begins adapting to 3,500m after the rapid altitude gain of the helicopter flight. A gentle morning walk above the village to approximately 3,800–4,000m follows the principle of climbing high and sleeping low. The Manaslu Conservation Area surrounds the village — gompa, mani walls, and the mountain rising directly above. The afternoon is spent resting, exploring Samagaon, or visiting the local monastery. Proper hydration is essential.
3,500m
Lodge
The trail from Samagaon climbs onto the glacier moraine toward Base Camp at 4,800m, passing Birendra Lake — a beautiful, still glacial lake at the foot of the glacier, tucked below the moraines with Manaslu reflected in the water on clear mornings. It is one of the finest natural features on any 8,000-metre approach in Nepal. Above the lake, the route continues onto the moraine to Base Camp. Tents are established, kitchen and dining set up, and the expedition formally begins.
4,800m
Camp
The Puja ceremony is conducted at Manaslu Base Camp — a traditional Sherpa blessing led by a lama, attended by the full team. All climbing equipment is blessed. The ceremony at Manaslu Base Camp has a particular character — the northeast face rises immediately above, the Manaslu glacier stretches ahead, and the mountain's scale is fully apparent from the moment the ceremony begins. The remainder of the day is for rest, equipment organization, and acclimatizing to the Base Camp altitude.
4,800m
Camp
This 23-day climbing window is managed entirely in the field by the expedition leader. Weather, route conditions, and team readiness determine the daily sequence within this period.
The typical structure: technical training at Base Camp covering crampon technique on the glacier approach, jumar use on the steeper sections above Camp 2, and oxygen system management → first rotation to Camp 1 (5,800m) and return to Base Camp → second rotation to Camp 2 (6,400m) and return → rest and recovery at Base Camp → third rotation reaching Camp 3 (6,800m) or above → recovery → summit push: Camp 1 → Camp 2 → Camp 3 → Camp 4 (7,400m) → summit day to Manaslu (8,163m) → descent to Camp 3 or Camp 4 → return to Base Camp.
Summit day from Camp 4 begins in the early hours. The terrain above Camp 4 involves steeper snow slopes and some mixed sections before the plateau approach to the summit at 8,163m. From the summit, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Cho Oyu, and the entire western Himalayan arc spread to the horizon. Supplemental oxygen is in use above Camp 2 for all members and guides throughout this window. All summit push decisions are made by the expedition leader based on current weather data and team condition.
8,163m
Camp
Base Camp is broken down. All tents are struck, waste is sorted and carried out in accordance with the Leave No Trace commitment and Manaslu Conservation Area regulations, and the site is left clean. The team treks back down to Samagaon — Birendra Lake visible again on the descent, Manaslu receding behind. The village receives the team for the final night before the helicopter return.
3,500m
Lodge
The helicopter returns the team from Samagaon to Kathmandu — 40 minutes over the same valley corridor, now with the summit of the eighth highest mountain on Earth behind you. The flight arrives in Kathmandu in the morning and the afternoon is free. A farewell dinner in the evening is the proper close to a 31-day expedition — a celebration of Manaslu, of the team, and of the highest altitude most climbers on this expedition have ever reached.
1,330m
Hotel
Private airport transfer for your international flight. The Manaslu Expedition concludes — 32 days from Kathmandu to the summit of the Mountain of the Spirit and back.
Why ACE?
Alpinist Climber Expeditions was built around a principle that has guided every climb we have organized — that the quality of the experience on a mountain is directly tied to the quality and depth of experience of the people leading it. What sets Alpinist Climber Expeditions apart is something that cannot be manufactured or replicated — it comes from decades spent on these mountains, from the culture that formed us, and from a deeply held belief that every climb deserves to be done properly.
We are a team of professional Sherpas. Not guides who have visited the Himalaya — guides who grew up here, who know these peaks in every season, and who have spent careers developing the technical skills and mountain judgment required to lead expeditions safely and successfully.
Our team holds IFMGA / UIAGM certification — the highest international standard in professional mountain guiding — alongside Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue, and High-Altitude Rescue qualifications. Our lead guide has summited multiple 8,000-metre peaks, including ascents without supplemental oxygen. This is not a credential on paper. It is a lived capability that directly protects every climber who climbs with us.
We offer two expedition structures: a standard option with small-group expedition, and a premium option with 1:1 guide-to-client ratio. Both are built on the same standard of safety, preparation, and professionalism.The standard option maintains a minimum 1:3 guide-to-client ratio with a dedicated IFMGA lead guide and Sherpa support on every climb. Our premium 1:1 private option places you on the mountain directly alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa.
We do not run high-volume operations as our clients are not bookings. They are climbers who have chosen to trust us with something significant and we take that trust seriously on every single expedition. We do not cut corners on acclimatization, staffing ratios, or safety equipment. We organize expeditions the way they should be organized — with patience, precision, and the kind of local knowledge that only comes from growing up in these mountains and spending a career on them.
The Team
Expedition Guides
Every guide on our team has been selected for their technical ability, high-altitude experience, and personal commitment to the safety and success of every climber they lead. All guides carry extensive experience at altitude and hold a proven record of safety, summit success, and strong compatibility with international clients.
The number of guides assigned to each expedition is determined by the size of the climbing team. Our standard guide-to-member ratio is 1:3, ensuring that every climber receives consistent, attentive support throughout the approach, the acclimatization phase, and the technical climb itself.
Climbing Sherpa Support
A dedicated team of experienced Climbing Sherpas supports every expedition with load carrying on the mountain, route preparation, and high camp management. On summit day, we maintain a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio — a commitment that reflects our belief that the summit push is where support matters most.
Our Climbing Sherpas are not simply load carriers. They are experienced high-altitude professionals who understand the mountain, the route, and the demands of summit day. Their presence alongside every climber on the final push is a core part of how we manage safety and success on the upper mountain.
What to Expect from Our Team
- Technically qualified, IFMGA-certified lead guidance on every expedition
- A standard guide-to-member ratio of 1:3 — adjusted based on team size and peak requirements
- 1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit day for every team member
- Guides who are experienced, companionable, and genuinely invested in your success
- Full medical kit, satellite communication, and emergency response capability carried by the team at all times
- A premium 1:1 private option available — summit alongside Mr. Prakash Sherpa directly
Trip Notes
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Manaslu is climbed in autumn — September through November. The post-monsoon weather window delivers the most reliable summit conditions on the northeast face. Spring is not recommended for Manaslu; virtually all summit successes on this peak occur in autumn. The summit window within this period is narrower than the spring Everest window and is monitored continuously throughout the climbing period.
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The expedition runs for 32 days from arrival in Kathmandu to final departure, including the helicopter approach to Samagaon, the Base Camp phase, the full climbing period, and the helicopter return.
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The helicopter flight to Samagaon involves a rapid altitude gain from 1,330m to 3,500m on Day 03. Activity on arrival in Samagaon is kept to a minimum. The acclimatization day on Day 04 is mandatory and not negotiable.
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Group size is a minimum of 2 members with 1 IFMGA Mountain Guide, and a maximum of 10 members with 2 IFMGA Mountain Guides. The number of guides is always determined by team size.
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Prior experience above 6,000 or 7,000 metres is strongly recommended. Manaslu is an accessible first 8,000m peak but it is not a beginner's mountain. Candidates with a solid 7,000m technical expedition background are well-positioned. For those using Manaslu as Everest preparation, prior experience on a 7,000m technical peak — Baruntse or Himlung Himal — before Manaslu is the ideal progression.
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Manaslu is a restricted area peak. The government liaison officer required for this expedition is included in the package and organized by Alpinist Climber Expeditions.
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A free duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt are provided at the team meeting in Kathmandu. Non-expedition luggage can be stored at your hotel in Kathmandu.
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All waste is carried out from Base Camp and high camps in accordance with Leave No Trace principles and Manaslu Conservation Area regulations. This is standard operating procedure on every expedition we organize on this mountain.
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Personal travel insurance with high-altitude rescue and medical evacuation coverage is mandatory for all participants. Your policy must cover mountaineering at 8,163m and include helicopter rescue. This must be confirmed before departure for Nepal.
Equipments
Manaslu is an 8,000-metre expedition with nights above 7,000m and a summit day at 8,163m. All personal equipment should be expedition-grade, rated for extreme cold, and tested in the field before departure. The same quality standard as any other 8,000-metre peak applies here.
Clothing
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Expedition down suit — highest grade available (Rab, Mountain Hardwear, or equivalent)
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Expedition down jacket — best available brand
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Waterproof Gore-Tex jacket and over-trousers fitting over alpine boots
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Balaclava fully covering nose and face — BUFF or equivalent
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Long sleeve thermal shirt and trousers — moisture-wicking base layer
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Fleece jacket and fleece trousers
Handwear & Footwear
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Thin liner gloves — warm and close-fitting
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Down mitts — required above Camp 3
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Gore-Tex Primaloft insulated gloves
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Mountain gloves — waterproof and windproof
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Smartwool mountaineering socks (2 pairs — new)
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Ultra-soft running or hiking socks (2 pairs — new)
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High-altitude mountaineering boots — La Sportiva G2 Evo or equivalent
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Alpine boots for lower camp and lodge use — La Sportiva or Scarpa equivalent
Technical Climbing Equipment
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UIAA-tested climbing helmet — Petzl or BD
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Sit harness — Petzl or BD
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Ski goggles with UV protection and anti-fog system
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UV-protective sunglasses
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Headlamp with spare Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries
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Ascender (jumar) — Petzl or BD
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Abseiling device (ATC guide) — Petzl or BD
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Screw gate carabiners — 2 large, 2 small
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Bent gate carabiners — 2 medium
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6mm cord — 2m and 5m (UIAA tested)
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Dynamic 8mm rope — 2m (UIAA tested)
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Ice axe — classic alpine type (Petzl, Grivel, or BD)
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Crampons compatible with high-altitude boots (Grivel, Petzl, or BD)
General Equipment
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Sleeping bag rated to -20°C or colder
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45–75 litre rucksack
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Large duffel bag with padlock
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1-litre water bottles (x2) and 1-litre stainless steel thermos
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Personal first aid kit and trekking poles
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Swiss army knife or Leatherman multi-tool
Upcoming Departure Dates
May 17
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5 July, 2026
Available
June 17
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5 August, 2026
Available
Whats Included
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Manaslu climbing royalty and expedition permit fees
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Manaslu Conservation Area permit and all necessary national park permits
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TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) card
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Summit route fixing fees
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Government liaison officer — wages, insurance, and transportation
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Garbage disposal and environmental management fees
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All government taxes, VAT, and official tourism service charges
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IFMGA-certified lead mountain guide — full wages and comprehensive insurance
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Experienced Climbing Sherpa support — 1:1 ratio on summit day — wages, summit bonus, equipment, and full insurance
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Base Camp cook and kitchen crew — wages, insurance, and equipment allowance
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Porters to carry expedition gear at a 1:1 member-to-porter ratio
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All staff accommodation, wages, equipment, insurance, and medical provisions
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4-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with daily breakfast (3 nights)
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Full-board lodge accommodation in Samagaon and at Base Camp
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Single dome tent per member at Base Camp with hot shower
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High camp tents for members and guides at Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, and Camp 4
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Helicopter flights: Kathmandu to Samagaon and return (both ways)
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Private vehicle airport transfers in Kathmandu
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Supplemental oxygen and masks for all members and guides
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Welcome dinner on Day 01 and farewell dinner on Day 31 in Kathmandu
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Full-board meals and drinks at Samagaon lodge and Base Camp throughout
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High-altitude food and provisions for members and guides at all high camps
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Medical kit carried throughout the expedition
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Satellite phone for emergency communication
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Alpinist Climber Expeditions branded duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt per member
Whats Not Included
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International airfare (to and from Kathmandu)
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Nepal entry visa fees
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Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
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Alcoholic beverages and internet / WiFi access
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Personal clothing and climbing equipment
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Personal first aid kit
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Special drone permit fees
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Personal travel, medical, and emergency rescue insurance
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Gratuities for guides, Climbing Sherpa, and all staff
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