MALANGPHULANG EXPEDITION
Trip Description
Malangphulang stands within the Mahalangur Himal of the Khumbu region, the great chain of peaks that forms the world's highest mountain concentration. At 6,573m, it sits well above the altitude threshold where the technical and physiological demands of a climb become serious. The peak has been visited by only a handful of climbing parties. Its West Face route, the only line to have been climbed was completed once, and the details of that ascent remain sparse in the mountaineering record.
The Southwest Ridge represents a new line on the mountain. Approaching from a different direction to the original West Face route, this ridge offers a technically challenging alternative that has not been established as a repeatable route. What this means in practical terms is that the team approaches the route with a higher degree of uncertainty than is present on well-established lines and a correspondingly higher requirement for technical competence, sound judgment, and the ability to adapt to conditions that have not been mapped by prior attempts.
The approach follows the familiar Khumbu corridor from Lukla through Namche Bazaar and Tengboche, before branching toward the peak. The climbing period is structured across a ten-day window from Day 10 to Day 20 — a dedicated block that allows for proper high-camp establishment, acclimatization rotations, weather assessment, and the summit push itself. An optional helicopter descent from the high camp is available on Day 21 for those who prefer not to complete the full trek out on foot.
This is a mountain that demands respect at every stage. The logistical, technical, and physical requirements are significant. The reward — a summit that almost no climber in the world has stood on, via a route that no one has yet established is correspondingly rare.
Trip Overview
Malangphulang (6,573m) is not a peak for climbers who are just beginning to explore the Himalaya. It is one of the rarest and most remote objectives in the Mahalangur Himal — a peak that has been summited only once, via the West Face, and which Alpinist Climber Expeditions is now approaching via a new route on the Southwest Ridge. This is expedition climbing in its most committed form.
The peak sits in the Khumbu region, within the same Mahalangur range that holds Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Cho Oyu. Its position in this landscape makes it a technically serious objective surrounded by the highest concentrations of altitude and mountaineering history in the world. The Southwest Ridge represents a genuinely new route on this mountain, a challenge that demands not only physical fitness and technical competence, but the kind of alpine judgment and adaptability that only comes from real high-altitude experience.
Alpinist Climber Expeditions has built its reputation on exactly this kind of objective. Our team carries a 100% summit success rate across our 6,000m and 7,000m peak portfolio — including some of the least-climbed peaks in Nepal: Kyajo Ri, Cholatse, Pumori, and Nuptse among them. This record reflects not just technical capability, but the careful planning, disciplined acclimatization, and sound mountain judgment that define every expedition we organize.
Malangphulang is an expedition for experienced alpinists who are ready for a serious new challenge on a mountain that almost no one has stood on top of. If you have the experience and the ambition, we are ready to take you there.
Expedition Highlights
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One of the least-climbed peaks in Nepal — summited only once via the West Face
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New route via the Southwest Ridge — a genuine first-route expedition objective
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Deep within the Mahalangur Himal — the same range as Everest, Lhotse, and Cho Oyu
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Led by an IFMGA-certified team with a 100% success rate on 6,000m and 7,000m peaks
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Pure alpine-style climbing — one of the last genuinely uncommercialised high-altitude objectives in Nepal
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Exceptional summit setting with views across the entire eastern Himalayan arc
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Option for 1:1 private expedition with IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa
Led by IFMGA-Certified Professionals
A technically serious and logistically complex expedition like Malangphulang requires more than guide certification, it requires a team with the specific experience of leading serious alpine-style climbs on serious terrain in serious conditions. Alpinist Climber Expeditions has built its programme around exactly this capability.
Every Malangphulang expedition is led by IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV-certified guides with deep high-altitude experience across the Mahalangur range and beyond. Mr. Prakash Sherpa, CEO and Lead IFMGA Mountain Guide, has summited Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Pumori, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, and Makalu — the 8,000-metre peaks that surround the Khumbu landscape within which Malangphulang sits. Several of these summits were achieved without supplemental oxygen. He holds additional qualifications in Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue, Advanced Mountaineering, and Rock Climbing, and is a member of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA).
Our operations and logistics teams provide comprehensive backup and support at every stage of this expedition, including a satellite phone, full medical kit, emergency response protocols, and the organizational infrastructure needed to manage a serious high-altitude objective in a remote setting.
Detailed Itinerary
Airport transfer and hotel check-in. The evening opens with a welcome dinner — an introduction to the expedition team and a first briefing on the journey ahead. This is an expedition that benefits from every team member being well-prepared from day one.
1,330m
Hotel
1
1
1
A comprehensive expedition briefing covering the Southwest Ridge route, the climbing period structure, safety protocols, high-altitude decision-making frameworks, and Ministry of Tourism permit formalities. Equipment is reviewed and verified by the guide team. The Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffel bag and cap are distributed. The afternoon is free for final personal preparation and Kathmandu exploration.
1,330m
Hotel
An early mountain flight to Lukla — the gateway to the Khumbu. The flight provides sweeping aerial views of the Himalayan range and sets the tone for the serious mountain terrain ahead. At Lukla, porters and support staff are confirmed and the team assembles for the trek.
2,860m
Lodge
The trail from Lukla descends gently along the Dudh Koshi River through Sherpa villages decorated with prayer flags and mani stones. A warm-up day that allows the team to settle into the rhythm of the trek before the altitude begins to build.
2,610m
Lodge
A long, steep ascent from Phakding through the Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint at Monjo and up to Namche Bazaar — the Sherpa capital of the Khumbu. The first clear views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam appear on the final ridge into town. Namche is the last well-supplied settlement before the upper Khumbu.
3,440m
Lodge
A structured acclimatization day. A hike to the Everest View Hotel ridge at approximately 3,800m follows the climb-high-sleep-low principle that underpins all safe altitude progression. The panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam from this ridge are outstanding.
3,440m
Lodge
The trail rises through rhododendron forest to Tengboche and the famous Tengboche Monastery — one of the most significant Buddhist monasteries in Nepal. The monastery offers a blessing for the team before the serious climbing ahead. Views of Ama Dablam, Everest, Lhotse, and the surrounding massif from the ridge are exceptional.
3,860m
Lodge
The approach continues from Tengboche toward the base of the peak. The trail leaves the main Khumbu trekking corridor and moves into the more remote terrain that characterizes the approach to Malangphulang's flanks. Base Camp at 4,600m is established on stable ground with the Southwest Ridge visible above. Equipment is organized and the climbing phase formally begins.
4,600m
Camp
A full rest and acclimatization day at Base Camp. The guide reviews the route plan, confirms team condition, and leads an equipment and safety briefing specific to the Southwest Ridge and the conditions expected above. Proper rest and nutrition at this stage directly affects performance during the climbing period.
4,600m
Camp
The ten-day climbing window is the heart of the expedition. During this period the team establishes high camps, conducts acclimatization rotations, assesses route conditions on the new Southwest Ridge, and makes the summit push when conditions allow.
The structure within the climbing period is managed in the field by the expedition leader based on daily weather forecasts, route assessments, and team condition. A typical structure would involve: Days 10–12 for initial route fixing and Camp 1 establishment; Days 13–15 for Camp 1 rotation and rest at Base Camp; Days 16–17 for Camp 2 establishment; Days 18–20 for the summit push from Camp 2. The flexibility of a ten-day window is deliberately built in to manage the unpredictability of conditions on a new, uncommitted route at this altitude.
All climbing above Base Camp uses alpine-style technique with fixed ropes on technical sections. The guide team manages all high-altitude decision-making in real time based on prevailing conditions.
6,573m
Camp
With the climbing phase complete, the team descends from Base Camp and begins the return trek toward the Khumbu valley. A helicopter evacuation option is available for those who prefer a direct flight from the high camp to Lukla rather than completing the trek return. All helicopter costs are at the individual's expense and must be arranged in advance.
3,440m
Lodge
The return trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla, following the Dudh Koshi River valley through Phakding and familiar Sherpa villages. The pace is comfortable on the descent and the trail is well-known by now.
2,860m
Lodge
An early flight returns the team to Kathmandu. The afternoon is free for rest or exploration of the city. A farewell dinner marks the conclusion of one of the most rare and ambitious expedition experiences available in Nepal.
1,330m
Hotel
Private airport transfer for your outbound flight. The Malangphulang Expedition concludes.
Why ACE?
Alpinist Climber Expeditions was built around a principle that has guided every climb we have organized — that the quality of the experience on a mountain is directly tied to the quality and depth of experience of the people leading it. What sets Alpinist Climber Expeditions apart is something that cannot be manufactured or replicated — it comes from decades spent on these mountains, from the culture that formed us, and from a deeply held belief that every climb deserves to be done properly.
We are a team of professional Sherpas. Not guides who have visited the Himalaya — guides who grew up here, who know these peaks in every season, and who have spent careers developing the technical skills and mountain judgment required to lead expeditions safely and successfully.
Our team holds IFMGA / UIAGM certification — the highest international standard in professional mountain guiding — alongside Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue, and High-Altitude Rescue qualifications. Our lead guide has summited multiple 8,000-metre peaks, including ascents without supplemental oxygen. This is not a credential on paper. It is a lived capability that directly protects every climber who climbs with us.
We offer two expedition structures: a standard option with small-group expedition, and a premium option with 1:1 guide-to-client ratio. Both are built on the same standard of safety, preparation, and professionalism.The standard option maintains a minimum 1:3 guide-to-client ratio with a dedicated IFMGA lead guide and Sherpa support on every climb. Our premium 1:1 private option places you on the mountain directly alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa.
We do not run high-volume operations as our clients are not bookings. They are climbers who have chosen to trust us with something significant and we take that trust seriously on every single expedition. We do not cut corners on acclimatization, staffing ratios, or safety equipment. We organize expeditions the way they should be organized — with patience, precision, and the kind of local knowledge that only comes from growing up in these mountains and spending a career on them.
The Team
Expedition Guides
Every guide on our team has been selected for their technical ability, high-altitude experience, and personal commitment to the safety and success of every climber they lead. All guides carry extensive experience at altitude and hold a proven record of safety, summit success, and strong compatibility with international clients.
The number of guides assigned to each expedition is determined by the size of the climbing team. Our standard guide-to-member ratio is 1:3, ensuring that every climber receives consistent, attentive support throughout the approach, the acclimatization phase, and the technical climb itself.
Climbing Sherpa Support
A dedicated team of experienced Climbing Sherpas supports every expedition with load carrying on the mountain, route preparation, and high camp management. On summit day, we maintain a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio — a commitment that reflects our belief that the summit push is where support matters most.
Our Climbing Sherpas are not simply load carriers. They are experienced high-altitude professionals who understand the mountain, the route, and the demands of summit day. Their presence alongside every climber on the final push is a core part of how we manage safety and success on the upper mountain.
What to Expect from Our Team
- Technically qualified, IFMGA-certified lead guidance on every expedition
- A standard guide-to-member ratio of 1:3 — adjusted based on team size and peak requirements
- 1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit day for every team member
- Guides who are experienced, companionable, and genuinely invested in your success
- Full medical kit, satellite communication, and emergency response capability carried by the team at all times
- A premium 1:1 private option available — summit alongside Mr. Prakash Sherpa directly
Trip Notes
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Best seasons are spring (April to May) and autumn (October to November). The technical nature of the route and the remoteness of the peak make weather windows more critical here than on more frequently-climbed objectives. Winter and monsoon seasons are not suitable.
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The expedition runs 24 days including the approach, the full 10-day climbing window, and the return to Kathmandu.
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Accommodation during the approach and descent is in comfortable lodges. At Base Camp, every member has a single private room with hot shower and access to a heated dining tent, toilet tent, and kitchen facilities. High camp accommodation is in tents.
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Group size is a minimum of 2 members with 1 IFMGA Mountain Guide, and a maximum of 6 members with 2 IFMGA Mountain Guides. Guide count is always determined by team size.
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This expedition is rated Hard — it is not suitable for climbers who are new to high-altitude technical climbing. Previous experience on at least one serious 6,000m peak is required, and experience on 7,000m terrain is strongly preferred. Physical fitness, mental resilience, and prior alpine climbing experience are all essential.
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A helicopter evacuation option is available on Day 21 from the high camp for those who prefer not to complete the trek return on foot. This must be arranged in advance and costs are the individual's responsibility.
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A free duffel bag and baseball cap are provided at the Kathmandu team meeting. The duffel bag will be used to carry expedition supplies.
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Bring your own daypack with waterproof cover for daily use — cash, documents, camera, notebook, and personal essentials.
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Non-expedition luggage can be stored safely at your Kathmandu hotel. No need to carry it to Base Camp.
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Guesthouses along the approach may charge a small fee for charging electronic devices. Carry a power bank as backup.
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Personal travel insurance with high-altitude rescue and medical evacuation coverage is mandatory. Ensure your policy covers technical climbing and rescue above 6,573m.
Equipments
Malangphulang demands the highest standard of personal equipment across every category. All items must be sourced, properly fitted, and thoroughly tested before departure. Do not bring gear — particularly boots and crampons — that you have not already used extensively in demanding conditions.
Headwear
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Sun hat or lightweight cap
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Warm fleece or wool hat
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UV-protective sunglasses (category 4 strongly recommended)
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Buff or thin balaclava / face mask
Handwear
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Lightweight fleece or wool inner gloves
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Gore-Tex outer mitten gloves
Clothing
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Gore-Tex waterproof jacket
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Gore-Tex waterproof trousers
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Hiking trousers
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Fleece jacket or warm mid-layer — fits inside Gore-Tex shell
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Moisture-wicking base layer top
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Thermal base layer trousers
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Down jacket with hood
Footwear
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Well broken-in trekking boots
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Double-insulated alpine climbing boots
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Crampons — 12-point, alpine-boot compatible
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Snow gaiters
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Trekking socks (4–5 pairs)
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Camp sandals
Technical Climbing Equipment
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Ice axe
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Sit harness
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Locking carabiners and belay device
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Ascender (jumar)
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Climbing helmet
Camping & Trekking Essentials
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Sleeping bag rated to at least -20°C
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45-litre rucksack with rain cover
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Large duffel bag with padlock
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Headlamp with spare batteries
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1-litre water bottles (x2)
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Thermos flask
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Trekking poles
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Personal first aid kit
Hygiene & Sun Protection
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Waterproof wash bag
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Medium towel
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Toiletries — soap, toothbrush, toothpaste
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Sunscreen SPF 50+ including lip balm
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Hand sanitizer and handwash
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Toilet paper and wet wipes
Whats Included
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Malangphulang peak climbing permits
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Sagarmatha National Park and Pasang Lhamu Municipality permits
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TIMS card
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Garbage disposal and environmental management fees
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Liaison officer — wages, insurance, and transportation
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All government taxes, VAT, and official tourism service charges
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IFMGA-certified lead mountain guide — full wages and comprehensive insurance
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Experienced Climbing Sherpa support — wages, summit bonus, transport, insurance, equipment allowance
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Base Camp kitchen crew — wages, insurance, and equipment allowance
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Porters to carry trekking and expedition gear
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All staff accommodation, wages, equipment, insurance, and provisions
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Group climbing equipment — rope, ice screws, walkie-talkies, and technical gear
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4-star hotel in Kathmandu with daily breakfast, welcome dinner, and farewell dinner (3 nights)
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Full-board lodge accommodation on the trekking approach and descent
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Full-board meals, unlimited drinks, and fresh fruit at Base Camp during the expedition
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High-altitude food, EPI gas, and cooking stoves for high camps
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Single private room at Base Camp with comfortable dining tent, heater, hot shower, and toilet facilities
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Round-trip Kathmandu to Lukla mountain flight
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Private vehicle airport transfers in Kathmandu
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Medical kit carried throughout the expedition
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Satellite phone for emergency communication
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Alpinist Climber Expeditions jacket, T-shirt, duffel bag, and cap per member
Whats Not Included
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International airfare
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Nepal entry visa fees
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Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu outside of the included welcome and farewell dinners
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Personal clothing and climbing equipment
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Personal first aid kit
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Alcoholic beverages
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Internet and WiFi
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Drone permit fees (if applicable)
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Personal travel, medical, and rescue insurance
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Any additional rescue costs or emergency expenses during the expedition
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Gratuities for guides, Climbing Sherpa, Base Camp staff, and porters
Get the 1:1 Guide Experience.
Our IFMGA certified guide - Prakash Sherpa oversees all our expeditions and operations, but you can also guarantee that he'll be your personal, 1:1 guide on the mountain.
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