KYAJO RI & CHOLATSE COMBO EXPEDITION
Trip Description
Kyajo Ri — 6,186m
Kyajo Ri sits above Thame village at 6,186 metres on the northwest rim of the Khumbu — a technical peak that sees far fewer ascents than its elevation and quality would suggest. The route rises through Base Camp at 4,550m, Camp 1 at 5,200m, and Camp 2 at 5,700m before the technical upper ridge leads to the summit. Above Camp 2, the terrain is serious: steep mixed ground, exposed ridge sections, and a demanding final approach that separates Kyajo Ri firmly from the trekking peaks category.
In this expedition, Kyajo Ri functions as the structured preparation stage. The mixed terrain on the upper ridge, the sustained effort above 5,500m, and the specific skills developed under IFMGA guide instruction during the summit push provide the direct technical foundation that Cholatse will demand at a higher level. Kyajo Ri is not a warm-up — it is a genuinely difficult 6,000m peak that happens to also be the best possible preparation for what comes next.
Cholatse — 6,440m
Cholatse stands at 6,440 metres above the Cho La pass on the western boundary of the Khumbu, at the head of the Gokyo Valley. It was first summited in 1982 and remains one of the more serious technical peaks available to climbers at this altitude in Nepal. The route ascends from Base Camp at 4,700m through Camp 1 at 5,600m and Camp 2 at 5,840m, before the upper mountain presents the most demanding ground of the expedition — steep ice and mixed terrain on the final approach to the summit ridge.
The mountain sees relatively few expeditions each season, which contributes to its character: the route is not a heavily trafficked fixed-line highway, and the conditions on the upper mountain require genuine reading and management by the guide team. The summit at 6,440m looks directly across the Ngozumba Glacier toward Cho Oyu, with Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu visible to the east and the Gokyo lakes glittering far below. It is a position that rewards the technical commitment required to reach it.
Trip Overview
The Kyajo Ri and Cholatse Combo Expedition is one of the most demanding two-peak packages available in the Khumbu. Both mountains are serious technical objectives above 6,000 metres and both require genuine alpine competence to attempt safely. This is not a programme for climbers who are new to technical terrain. It is designed for advanced mountaineers who want a significant challenge and are ready to pursue two difficult summits in a single 25-day expedition.
The expedition begins with Kyajo Ri (6,186m) — not because it is easy, but because it is less demanding than what follows. The three-camp route on Kyajo Ri's upper ridge develops the technical skills, high-altitude rhythm, and physical conditioning that Cholatse's more committing terrain will require. By the time the team crosses the Gokyo Valley toward Cholatse Base Camp, they have stood on a 6,186m technical summit and climbed through steep mixed ground that directly mirrors the lower sections of Cholatse's route.
Cholatse stands at 6,440 metres above the Cho La pass on the western edge of the Khumbu — a peak with a well-earned reputation for sustained difficulty. The route through three camps involves glacier travel, steep snow and ice, and technically demanding ground on the upper ridge that places this mountain firmly in the category of serious alpine objectives. It sees far fewer ascents than many comparable peaks, and the summit view — directly above the Gokyo lakes with Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu filling the northern and eastern horizon is one of the finest in the entire Khumbu.
Prior experience in technical climbing is essential for this expedition. Both peaks demand a certain level of skill, fitness, and mental commitment that cannot be substituted by enthusiasm alone. For those who meet that standard, the Kyajo Ri and Cholatse Combo is one of the most rewarding 25-day programmes available in Nepal.
Expedition Highlights
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Two technical summits — Kyajo Ri (6,186m) as the alpine preparation stage, Cholatse (6,440m) as the primary objective
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Cholatse: a serious and rarely crowded 6,440m peak above the Cho La, with a reputation for sustained technical difficulty and exceptional summit views
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Kyajo Ri: three-camp technical route above Thame — the ideal preparation for Cholatse's more demanding upper terrain
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The full Khumbu approach via Namche, with the Gokyo Valley traversal leading to Cholatse Base Camp
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Available in spring, autumn, and winter — one of the few Khumbu combo expeditions with a winter option
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IFMGA-certified lead guide and 1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit days for both peaks
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Option for a fully private 1:1 expedition with IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa
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A total high-altitude challenge that rewards experience, preparation, and commitment in equal measure
Led by IFMGA-Certified Professionals
Cholatse is a mountain that demands experienced, technically competent guiding at every stage of the route. The upper terrain above Camp 2 involves steep ice and mixed climbing that requires sound judgment, technical ability, and the presence of mind to manage a rope team on serious ground at 6,000 metres. An IFMGA-certified guide is not a recommendation for this expedition — it is a requirement.
Every Kyajo Ri and Cholatse Combo Expedition is led by an IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV-certified mountain guide — the highest internationally recognized certification in professional mountain guiding. Our guides carry additional qualifications in Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue and Marshalling, Rock Climbing Level One, and High-Altitude Rescue — all applied in the field on every expedition.
Mr. Prakash Sherpa, CEO and Lead IFMGA Mountain Guide of Alpinist Climber Expeditions, has been guiding on Himalayan terrain of this standard since the age of 18 — with over 15 years of professional experience and a summit record that includes Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Nuptse, Pumori, and Ama Dablam. He is a member of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA). For those selecting the premium 1:1 private option, Mr. Prakash Sherpa leads the full expedition personally across both peaks.
Detailed Itinerary
A representative from Alpinist Climber Expeditions meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your 4-star hotel. The evening begins with a welcome dinner — the first chance to meet your guide and fellow team members before the Khumbu journey begins.
A comprehensive briefing covers both peaks — the full route, camp structures, technical approach, safety protocols, and permit logistics. Equipment is checked and confirmed. You receive your Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt. The afternoon is free for any final preparation before the flight to Lukla the following morning.
An early mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m) with sweeping Himalayan views on the approach. The team assembles in Lukla and loads are organized before the first trekking day begins. The trail descends along the Dudh Koshi River through pine forest to Phakding — a steady, manageable introduction to the Khumbu trail.
The trail crosses the Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint at Monjo and climbs steeply to Namche Bazaar — the commercial hub and cultural centre of the Sherpa world at 3,440m. The steep ascent from the river crossing below gains approximately 600 metres and marks the most physically demanding trekking day of the approach. Kyajo Ri's summit is visible on the northwest ridge above Namche from the village itself.
A structured acclimatization day. A morning hike to the Everest View Hotel ridge at approximately 3,800m builds altitude exposure above Namche before returning to sleep lower. The route above Namche passes through Khumjung village and delivers views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and — directly — Kyajo Ri above the Thame Valley to the northwest. A first clear look at the first summit ahead.
The trail branches northwest from Namche through Khunde — a traditional Sherpa village below the Khunde Hospital, the oldest hospital in the Khumbu. From Khunde, the path climbs steeply toward Thame and then continues above the village to Kyajo Ri Base Camp at 4,550m. The summit ridge of Kyajo Ri dominates the view above — steeper and more serious in appearance than the trail below would suggest.
A rest and preparation day at Kyajo Ri Base Camp. Equipment is organized, the route is reviewed in detail with the lead guide, and the team acclimatizes before the serious climbing begins the following morning. The terrain from Camp 1 through Camp 2 and the upper ridge is visible from Base Camp and discussed in full.
The route from Base Camp climbs through mixed terrain — rock, snow, and the first technical sections of the lower ridge — to Camp 1 at 5,200m. The upper mountain is now fully visible above: the steeper ground between Camp 1 and Camp 2, and the exposed final ridge to the summit are clearly apparent from this vantage. Tents are established, a hot meal prepared, and the team rests in preparation for the more demanding move to Camp 2.
Above Camp 1 the terrain intensifies. Fixed lines protect the steeper sections as the route gains the main ridge through steep snow and mixed ground. Camp 2 at 5,700m sits in a sheltered position on the upper ridge with the Kyajo Ri summit clearly visible above. The Cholatse massif is now visible to the southeast — a first look at the second objective. The team rests carefully in preparation for the summit push.
A reserve day at Camp 2. Weather on the Kyajo Ri upper ridge is unpredictable and the summit cannot safely be attempted in poor conditions. This buffer day protects the summit window without compressing the timeline. All decisions are made by the expedition leader based on current weather and route data. If conditions allow on Day 10, the leader may summit and use Day 11 as descent.
The summit push from Camp 2 begins in the early hours. The upper ridge of Kyajo Ri is the most technically demanding ground on this peak — sustained steep terrain, mixed sections, and the final exposed approach to the summit at 6,186m. The view from the top encompasses Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Ama Dablam on one side, and the Cholatse massif clearly defined to the southeast — the next objective, now visible from the top of the first. The team descends to Base Camp with a 1:1 Climbing Sherpa alongside each member throughout.
From Kyajo Ri Base Camp the team descends back through the Thame trail to Khunde. The altitude drop is significant and the lower valley's warmth is immediately welcome after the time above 5,000m. Khunde provides a proper lodge rest between the two phases of the expedition
The trail moves east and south from Khunde, joining the Gokyo Valley approach through the Khumbu's less-trafficked western corridor. The route passes through Mong La and descends to the Dudh Koshi before climbing to Dole — a small settlement in the lower Gokyo Valley with fine views of Cho Oyu appearing to the north for the first time. The Gokyo route is quieter than the main Everest trail and the change in atmosphere is noticeable.
The Gokyo Valley route continues north to Machhermo — a well-established lodge stop on the approach to the Gokyo lakes and Cholatse. The valley narrows and steepens above Dole, and the peaks ahead begin to grow in scale. Machhermo sits at a meaningful altitude and the overnight here serves as useful preparation before the further climb to Cholatse Base Camp the following day.
From Machhermo, the trail branches toward the Cho La and the approach to Cholatse Base Camp at 4,700m. The mountain reveals itself progressively on the approach — its southwest face, the route of ascent, and the sharp summit ridge becoming clearer with every hundred metres of altitude gained. Base Camp is established on solid ground below the lower glacier, with the route above beginning to take shape. The second phase of the expedition formally begins.
The Puja ceremony is conducted at Cholatse Base Camp — a traditional Sherpa blessing ritual attended by every member of the team. All climbing equipment is blessed before use on the mountain. This ceremony carries the same genuine significance as at any other Base Camp, and on a less-visited peak like Cholatse it has a particularly intimate quality. The day's remainder is for rest, equipment organization, and settling into the altitude ahead of the climbing phase.
The route above Base Camp enters serious terrain quickly. Cholatse's lower glacier approach involves crevassed glacier travel and increasingly steep snow before Camp 1 at 5,600m is reached. This is a significant altitude gain from Base Camp in a single day, and the physical demand of the day reflects the character of the mountain above. Camp 1 is a well-positioned camp with full exposure to the upper route and the conditions that will determine the summit window.
Above Camp 1 the terrain becomes more committed. Steep ice and mixed ground characterize the approach to Camp 2 at 5,840m — the final camp before the summit push. Fixed lines protect the most demanding sections, but the climbing requires the technical competence and altitude conditioning that the Kyajo Ri phase has developed. Camp 2 is an exposed but sheltered position with the upper summit ridge now directly above. The team rests carefully, eating well and managing hydration in preparation for an early summit departure.
A reserve day at Camp 2. Cholatse's upper ridge at nearly 6,000m is exposed to weather systems that move quickly through the Gokyo Valley. This buffer day ensures the team can wait for a proper summit window without compressing the descent or the return timeline. All decisions are made by the expedition leader based on current weather data and conditions on the upper route. If conditions allow, the leader may summit on Day 19 and use Day 20 as the descent day.
Summit day begins before dawn from Camp 2. The upper mountain presents the most technical and committing terrain of the full 25-day expedition — steep ice, mixed sections, and the final push along the exposed summit ridge to 6,440m. A 1:1 Climbing Sherpa accompanies each member throughout. The summit of Cholatse delivers an extraordinary panorama: Cho Oyu fills the northwest horizon, the Ngozumba Glacier stretches below toward the Gokyo lakes, and Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu rise to the northeast and east. Two technical summits completed in 25 days.
After time at the top, the team descends methodically to Camp 1. The technical ground above Camp 2 demands the same careful attention on descent as on ascent — the guide team manages the return with the same focus as the climb.
A full descent from Camp 1 to Cholatse Base Camp. The camp is broken down over the afternoon and the team prepares for the return trek beginning the following morning. The valley below Base Camp is now a very welcome sight after nearly two weeks above 5,000m on two technical mountains.
The return trek retraces the Gokyo Valley approach in reverse — south through Machhermo and Dole, crossing back into the main Khumbu corridor and arriving in Namche Bazaar by the afternoon. The altitude drop from 4,700m to 3,440m is felt immediately and gratefully.
The final trekking day follows the Dudh Koshi River downstream from Namche through Phakding and the familiar lower Khumbu forest to Lukla. The trail is well-known by this point and the pace is easy. Porters are thanked and farewelled in Lukla before the final night on the expedition.
An early morning flight from Lukla returns the team to Kathmandu. The afternoon is free for rest, a final exploration of Thamel, or souvenir shopping before the farewell dinner in the evening — a proper celebration of 25 days, two 6,000m technical summits, and the commitment it took to reach both of them.
Private airport transfer is arranged for your outbound flight. The Kyajo Ri and Cholatse Combo Expedition concludes — 25 days from Kathmandu to two serious alpine summits and back.
Why ACE?
Alpinist Climber Expeditions was built around a principle that has guided every climb we have organized — that the quality of the experience on a mountain is directly tied to the quality and depth of experience of the people leading it. What sets Alpinist Climber Expeditions apart is something that cannot be manufactured or replicated — it comes from decades spent on these mountains, from the culture that formed us, and from a deeply held belief that every climb deserves to be done properly.
We are a team of professional Sherpas. Not guides who have visited the Himalaya — guides who grew up here, who know these peaks in every season, and who have spent careers developing the technical skills and mountain judgment required to lead expeditions safely and successfully.
Our team holds IFMGA / UIAGM certification — the highest international standard in professional mountain guiding — alongside Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue, and High-Altitude Rescue qualifications. Our lead guide has summited multiple 8,000-metre peaks, including ascents without supplemental oxygen. This is not a credential on paper. It is a lived capability that directly protects every climber who climbs with us.
We offer two expedition structures: a standard option with small-group expedition, and a premium option with 1:1 guide-to-client ratio. Both are built on the same standard of safety, preparation, and professionalism.The standard option maintains a minimum 1:3 guide-to-client ratio with a dedicated IFMGA lead guide and Sherpa support on every climb. Our premium 1:1 private option places you on the mountain directly alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa.
We do not run high-volume operations as our clients are not bookings. They are climbers who have chosen to trust us with something significant and we take that trust seriously on every single expedition. We do not cut corners on acclimatization, staffing ratios, or safety equipment. We organize expeditions the way they should be organized — with patience, precision, and the kind of local knowledge that only comes from growing up in these mountains and spending a career on them.
The Team
Expedition Guides
Every guide on our team has been selected for their technical ability, high-altitude experience, and personal commitment to the safety and success of every climber they lead. All guides carry extensive experience at altitude and hold a proven record of safety, summit success, and strong compatibility with international clients.
The number of guides assigned to each expedition is determined by the size of the climbing team. Our standard guide-to-member ratio is 1:3, ensuring that every climber receives consistent, attentive support throughout the approach, the acclimatization phase, and the technical climb itself.
Climbing Sherpa Support
A dedicated team of experienced Climbing Sherpas supports every expedition with load carrying on the mountain, route preparation, and high camp management. On summit day, we maintain a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio — a commitment that reflects our belief that the summit push is where support matters most.
Our Climbing Sherpas are not simply load carriers. They are experienced high-altitude professionals who understand the mountain, the route, and the demands of summit day. Their presence alongside every climber on the final push is a core part of how we manage safety and success on the upper mountain.
What to Expect from Our Team
- Technically qualified, IFMGA-certified lead guidance on every expedition
- A standard guide-to-member ratio of 1:3 — adjusted based on team size and peak requirements
- 1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit day for every team member
- Guides who are experienced, companionable, and genuinely invested in your success
- Full medical kit, satellite communication, and emergency response capability carried by the team at all times
- A premium 1:1 private option available — summit alongside Mr. Prakash Sherpa directly
Trip Notes
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The best seasons are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). Both offer reliable weather windows and good conditions on both peaks. Winter is operationally possible on this combination — Kyajo Ri and Cholatse are among the few Khumbu 6,000m expeditions with a viable winter season for well-prepared teams. Monsoon season (June to September) is not suitable.
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The expedition runs for 25 days from arrival in Kathmandu to final departure — covering the Kyajo Ri phase, the Gokyo Valley transition to Cholatse, the climbing period, and the return to Kathmandu.
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Accommodation during trekking is in lodges on full board. At both base camps, each member has a single private tent with a shared dining tent and toilet tent. Above base camp, accommodation is in shared high camp tents at each elevation on both peaks.
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Group size is a minimum of 1 member with 1 IFMGA Mountain Guide, and a maximum of 6 members with 2 IFMGA Mountain Guides. The number of guides is always determined by the size of the team.
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Both peaks require prior technical climbing experience on semi-technical alpine terrain. Candidates should be confident with crampon use on steep snow and ice, comfortable on fixed ropes, and experienced with the physical demands of multiple consecutive days above 5,000m. This is not a suitable expedition for climbers with no prior technical high-altitude background.
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A free duffel bag, baseball cap, and T-shirt are provided to every member at the expedition team meeting in Kathmandu. Non-expedition luggage can be stored safely at your hotel in Kathmandu.
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Bring your own daypack with a waterproof cover for daily use on the trek. Keep cash, documents, camera, and a change of clothing in your daypack. Guesthouses along the route may charge a small fee for charging electronic devices — carry a power bank as backup.
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Personal travel insurance with high-altitude rescue and medical evacuation coverage is mandatory for all participants. Your policy must specifically cover technical mountaineering at altitudes above 6,440m and must include helicopter rescue. This must be confirmed before departure for Nepal.
Equipments
This is a 25-day expedition with two serious technical peaks, sustained time above 5,000m, and a summit at 6,440m on committing alpine terrain. Every item on this list should be tested before departure. Equipment must perform in cold, exposed conditions above 5,800m on both Kyajo Ri and Cholatse.
Headwear
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Sun hat or lightweight cap
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Warm fleece or wool hat
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Balaclava or thin face mask
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UV-protective sunglasses — category 4 strongly recommended
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Ski goggles with UV protection and anti-fog system
Handwear
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Thin liner gloves
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Fleece or wool mid-layer gloves
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Gore-Tex or waterproof insulated outer gloves
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Down mittens — recommended for both summit pushes
Clothing
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Expedition-quality down jacket with hood
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Waterproof Gore-Tex jacket
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Waterproof Gore-Tex over-trousers
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Fleece jacket or softshell mid-layer
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Fleece or insulated trousers
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Thermal base layer — top and bottom
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Moisture-wicking base layer tops (2–3)
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Light hiking trousers for the trek
Footwear
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High-altitude mountaineering boots — required for both peaks
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Trekking boots for approach stages
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Camp shoes or light slippers
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Warm mountaineering socks (4–5 pairs)
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Snow gaiters
Technical Climbing Equipment
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UIAA-approved climbing helmet
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Sit harness
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Ascender (jumar)
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Descending device (ATC guide or similar)
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Locking carabiners (4 minimum)
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Non-locking carabiners (2)
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Ice axe — classic alpine type
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Crampons compatible with mountaineering boots
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Trekking poles
Sleeping Equipment
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Sleeping bag rated to -20°C
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Sleeping mat or Thermarest
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Sleeping bag liner — recommended
Trekking & Camp Essentials
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45-litre rucksack with rain cover
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Large duffel bag with padlock
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Headlamp with spare batteries
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1-litre water bottles (x2) and 1-litre thermos
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Personal first aid kit
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Personal snacks and energy bars
Hygiene & Sun Protection
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Waterproof wash bag and medium towel
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Toiletries — soap, toothbrush, toothpaste
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Sunscreen SPF 50+ and lip balm with UV protection
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Hand sanitizer, wet wipes, and toilet paper
Upcoming Departure Dates
Whats Included
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Kyajo Ri climbing royalty and expedition permit fees
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Cholatse climbing royalty and expedition permit fees
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Sagarmatha National Park entry permit
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Pasang Lhamu Municipality entry fees
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Garbage disposal and environmental management fees
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All government taxes, VAT, and official tourism service charges
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IFMGA-certified lead mountain guide — full wages and comprehensive insurance
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Experienced Climbing Sherpa support — wages, summit bonuses for both peaks, equipment, and full insurance
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Porters to carry trekking and expedition gear at a 1:1 member-to-porter ratio
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All staff accommodation, wages, equipment, insurance, and medical provisions
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4-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with daily breakfast (3 nights)
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Full-board lodge accommodation during all trekking phases
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Single tent per member at Kyajo Ri Base Camp and Cholatse Base Camp
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Dining tent and toilet tent at both base camps
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High camp tents at all overnight camping stages above both base camps
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Domestic flights: Kathmandu to Lukla and return (both ways)
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Private vehicle airport transfers in Kathmandu — pick-up and drop-off
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Welcome dinner on Day 01 in Kathmandu
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Farewell dinner on the final evening in Kathmandu
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Daily breakfast at 4-star hotel in Kathmandu
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Full-board meals during all trekking and lodge phases
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High-altitude food and snacks for members and guides at all high camps on both peaks
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Medical kit carried throughout the expedition
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Satellite phone for emergency communication
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Walkie-talkie radios for team coordination on both peaks
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Alpinist Climber Expeditions branded duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt per member
Whats Not Included
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International airfare (to and from Kathmandu)
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Nepal entry visa fees
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Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu — meals outside of included welcome and farewell dinners and daily breakfasts
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Alcoholic and soft beverages
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Internet and WiFi access
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Personal clothing and climbing equipment
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Personal first aid kit
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Special drone permit fees
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Personal travel, medical, and emergency rescue insurance
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Gratuities for guides, Climbing Sherpa, and porters
Gallery Highlights
Our IFMGA certified guide - Prakash Sherpa oversees all our expeditions and operations, but you can also guarantee that he'll be your personal, 1:1 guide on the mountain.
FAQs
Flexible options are available to adjust the itinerary, services, and guiding support based on your needs.